Wednesday the 16th

A restorative day. After breakfast--with the treat of a fried egg and toasted bread, along with the usual tomatoes, cukumbers, cheese, and olives--we made a quick trip to the market for some supplies and headed back to the trail--stopping a few minutes in for fresh squeezed orange juice. The trail was much easier going, through many fields with less rocky footing. Our goals for the day were to cover several kilometers, find a place to swim and a campsite near the ocean. All had been accomplished by 3:30. It was a day with time for nature observations of lizards, donkeys, snakes, ants, and--most interestingly--turtles. Near our chosen campsite we found two turtles, one large and one smaller. The smaller one kept banging into the rear of the larger one. At first we though the big one was stuck between two rocks and this was an altruistic act--like the teamwork observed among ants carrying bread crumbs. In time though it became clear that this was harassment. When the smaller turtle would approach from the front, the larger withdrew. When the smaller one moved off some, the big one started to move away. Alas the smaller is much faster and climbed atop the larger, ramming it. The small one stood on top of the big one and screamed. This is the first time I've heard a turtle cry out. Quite a drama. They eventually went separate ways.

We are relaxing and reading by our campsite on a cove wih some sailboats off shore. The swim was great, as is the feeling of being settled for the evening wih energy to spare.

After dinner a small motor craft left a large anchored boat and came to shore. The young man who is captain of the cruise boat asks if we need anything such as water. At first we said no, but later reconsider as we are unclear of our next destination and water availability. He comes back with several liters of water, a bottle of wine, and 3 wine glasses. I think he was charmed by Cecily. So we share some wine and get to know some about him and the area. An hour or so later he returns to his boat, we finish our game of 2-handed bridge and we retire to bed for a peaceful night's sleep.

This prompts some thoughts on the advantages of traveling as a mother/daughter pair - apparently a rarity. Many older German women verbalized envy of the pairimg andskepticism  that it would work with their daughters. Turkish women who have invited us in for tea have not invited in pairs with males or even just young women. My presence serves to dampen the ardor of young men who are drawn to my lovely blonde daughter.