Well, it's been a long time since Cec wrote the "kickass mom" comment and I think she wouldn't say it now. Later Sunday we had more encounters with narrow ledges on steep rocky clifs over the ocean, plus many climbs and descents. As someone who has a moderate fear of heights and precipices, I found this very challenging. However, going back was not an option and one does what one must. It was an exhausting day and we pitched camp on top of a rise and had a long and peaceful sleep.  Of course, Monday starts with a decent on rocky trails. I remember saying that my pack was no longer a problem. The hardest part is the trail quality--covered with largish rocks and requiring constant vigilance . Goats have been our main companions on the trail.

We were surprised at the bottom of that descent by the appearance of an attractive array of buildings. We met a man who has spent the last 13 years building a restaurant, dock, some rooms, a rough road, and setting up solar power in this remote cove. Quite nice though access to water is a problem here and for these two days on the trail. We bought some water and tea but the main thing we bought was a ride to a town further down trail, allowing us to bypass some difficult terrain.

The ride in his 31 year old station wagon was also hair raising. For starters, the "road" on which we started would tear up tires in days. His speed on the many hills was scary but we lived to tell of this too. I sang along with him to the radio playing REM's "Losing My Religion" and that was calming until he started playing air guitar while driving.

We then hiked all afternoon to Aperlae--a ruined village with a few remaining houses--where we stayed in a rustic pansyon and met up with two German couples we have seen at other points along the trail. Aperlae once supplied the Roman Empire with a purple dye made from local snails but the town was submerged, along with a couple other coastal villages, by an earthquake during the 2nd century.

This morning Cec did some snorkeling over some sunken ruins while I watched. Besides ruins, she saw fish and a large sea turtle. Then we hit the trail. Today's walk was described as fairly short and easy but I wouldn't say so. The sun is strong and the trail surface is rough.

I find the walking hard but also a great way or get to know the country and people. My appreciation for the calm competence of my hiking partner has grown and there are many moments of fun and awe. Tonight we are in Ucagiz--a small fishing village that is also the hub for boat tours over the sunken ruins of Simena.